Gnocchi with Pesto Cream Sauce à la Wok

I’m in the middle of a personal dilemma of sorts this week. I’ve been feeling extraordinarily exhausted and unmotivated, craving hibernation and inactivity and solitude as much as possible. However, my inner cheerleader (damn her!) has been trying her best to get me out of bed, out of the flat, doing something, anything.

I kind of hate her.

One of the results of this has been an awful lot of cooking going on.  Elaborate, multi-part recipes that take up most of the afternoon. Heavy, fragrant autumnal dishes that leave me feeling even more lazy and tired and unmotivated after eating them.

But so very, very yummy.

I’ll be extraordinarily fat by the time winter rolls around, at this rate.

This morning Doug asked me if we could do pesto pasta with chicken for dinner. I said sure. No problem.

Now, if I was sane I’d probably pop down to the import shop and buy a little jar of pesto and a box of pasta and a packet of chicken bosoms.  Prep time would be, um, maybe twenty minutes, including the time it takes to bring the water to a boil.

Did I do that?

No.

Let me show you what I did, and after you see what I did, I want you to imagine how insanely tired I feel now.

A bit blurry and dark, but look- I made dinner! Please ignore the exhausted look in my eyes.

I made a few separate things throughout the afternoon that came together for dinner.

First, I made gnocchi. Not just pasta, not even ancient coin-shaped Arabian pasta, no. I made gnocchi. Gnocchi costs about 80 rmb for a little packet in the refrigerator section of the import shop. I’ve never bought it. 80 kuai just seems absurd for a dough product.

The Gnocchi

 

No recipe to link to, as this was something I already knew from yonks ago. It’s a rough approximation of a recipe for just under a kilo of the stuff. You can halve it if you’re just one person, or make the full batch and freeze 75% of it for later.

It goes something like this:

  • 4 spuds, ideally Russet but anything you’ve got at hand is fine. Boil or bake until tender. I boiled mine, skins on. Less waterlogged that way.
  • 1.5 cups of flour
  • 1 egg
  • Some salt

 

When your spuds are cooked, let them cool so you don’t burn your fingers when you grate them. Technically, you’re supposed to ‘rice’ them with a ‘ricer’ but I use one of those 5 sided standing graters. I use the same side as the one I use for grating cheese. What you want is something like mashed potatoes but without the clumpy density. The grating, one might say, lifts and separates.

Grated boiled spud, skins on, left to cool

Dump the cooled, riced spuds onto a cutting board, dust it with a cup or so of flour (I used 1.5 cups, you may need more or less depending on your spud) and crack an egg on top and throw on a shake or two of salt.

With your hands (which will get awfully goopy and doughy in this stage so make sure you have sufficient flour at hand before you dive in), mix the spud and flour and egg into a dough ball and gently knead it until it feels combined and forms a nice ball. It shouldn’t be wet or sticky if you have added enough flour. By the end, it shouldn’t be sticking to your fingers any more.

Cut the dough into quarters. Dust the sticky, newly opened sides with flour. Roll them into balls.

This is the gnocchi dough, quartered and floured.
Roll out balls and then roll them out in lengths. Pretend it's Play-Doh.
Cut up the lengths of gnocchi dough
Make fork dents on them, because tradition says to. Dust with flour to prevent sticking.

This recipe makes a sh*tload of gnocchi, to be quite honest. Far more than you could eat– unless you’re, say, a family of six. I boiled up 20 for the two of us for dinner and froze the rest. What you see above in that tray was only about half of the haul.

To cook the gnocchi is very simple.

Boil a big pot of lightly salted water. When it’s fiercely roiling away, gently add a half dozen gnocchi and watch them sink to the bottom. When they rise of their own volition after a couple minutes, they are done. Use a big slotted spoon to haul them out, draining the water. Repeat until you have all the gnocchi you need.

I put mine on a plate to wait until everything else was done.

Yes, they're about as ugly as the other night's ancient coin pasta. I am the queen of ugly food.

 

The Pesto

 

You know how most people generally buy their pesto from the supermarket in jars? Or if they’re feeling particularly ambitious, they’ll haul out the food processor?

Not me.

I have a HUGE knife and I like to use it.

This is how to make pesto the hard way.

You need:

  • A big bunch of fresh basil. Luckily City Shop had it in stock after a long absence. I bought enough to give me enough leaves to fill both hands.
  • A lot of garlic. We used a head- partly for the chicken and mostly for the pesto. Chop it finely.
  • Half a cup of grated Parmesan cheese. Try to get the blocks, if at all possible. Not cheap and not always possible to find but totally worth it.
  • Olive oil and pine nuts. If you haven’t got pine nuts, no worries. Do without. No olive oil? Use sunflower or another neutral veggie oil.

 

A mountain of fresh basil
Got no food processor? Get out the big knife!

For chopping the basil, don’t slice it like bread. Use the full weight and size of the blade, with one hand on the handle and the other hand on the far end, rocking the sharp blade up and down over the leaves. Thunk-thunk-thunk.  Like a really awful, bladey pendulum. You are that poor basil’s Sword of Damocles, realized.

When the basil’s been hacked to shreds, add the garlic and pine nuts and continue to rock the blade away. Up down, up down, landing first on the far end of the blade then back to the rear end and repeat until very very finely minced.

Note: What appears to be a bottle of ground cumin below is in fact just a handy storage jar for my pine nuts. Please do not be confused by it.

Chop the hell out of the basil, garlic and pine nuts
This is what pesto looks like after you've gone at it with a really big knife
Grate some parmesan, if you can get it.
Mix cheese and a drizzle of olive oil with the chopped up bits and put it all in the fridge to meld the flavours.

The Cream Sauce

 

This is basically a white sauce with a roux as a base- pretty much the same as I used for the Welsh Rarebit  last month.

You need:

  • A big spoonful of butter
  • A big spoonful of flour
  • A cup or so of milk

 

The basics for a roux, leading to a white sauce
Over a low low low flame, melt the butter and stir in the flour, letting it brown but not burn
This is the browned flour and butter, to which you'll then slowly add the milk for the sauce, over a low flame. Stir constantly so it doesn't clump. The flour will thicken the sauce, slowly

When you’ve added the milk, slowly, stirring all the time until the sauce starts to thicken until, well, it has the consistency of a cream sauce,  add half of the pesto (that is, if you made as much pesto as I did…).  About 1/2 cup of fresh pesto should be fine, but more or less would also be okay.  The rest of the pesto (if you have any remaining) can be kept for tomorrow or frozen in an ice cube tray.

After the sauce has thickened to your liking, add the pesto and let it burble on low for a few minutes, stirring carefully.

The Whole Thing Pulled Together

 

By this point, you should have some cooked gnocchi set aside, ready to go, and that little sauce pan of pesto cream sauce. If you’re vegetarian, now would be the time to toss the slightly cooled gnocchis with the sauce in the wok for a minute or so, heating it gently to your preferred temperature. You can go eat.

For the rest of you, we have a little chicken to go with.

For one meal with two people (with about 10 gnocchis each), I used one chicken bosom, very thinly sliced into strips, which had been marinated in olive oil, a pinch of salt, and about 25% of the garlic (3 or 4 cloves, I’d wager) for a few hours in the fridge.

Sautee those in the wok in a little oil of your choice, including the bits of chopped up garlic, until cooked. They’re thin so they don’t take long.

When the chicken is done, pour in the pesto sauce, stir a bit, then add the gnocchis and toss them about until coated.

That, my friends, is it. Done.

After sauteeing the thin bits of garlic-marinated chicken, add the pesto sauce, give it a stir or three, then throw in the gnocchi.
Dinner (salad was already on the table)!

Thankfully my inner boarding house mother instincts took over and I made enough for at least two meals so I don’t have to do this again tomorrow.  I have a feeling I am the reincarnation of someone who had to cook for vast quantities of people at a time…

7 Comments

  • Michi

    Oh, this is heaven. You’re a kitchen guru, I love that you do it all the hard way – you’re only a step away from killing and plucking the chicken yourself.
    You also give terrific instructions, I’ve read through all of it and you’ve made it seem so easy! I’ll have to give it a try this Winter (I’m going to go batshit nuts catching up on all of my leisurely reading and long list of complicated recipe intents when I finish this fool Master’s program).
    I love the cheerleader in you – she brings out the great chef! 😉
    Michi recently posted..Eating a la Española – it’s a down-and-dirty sort of art.My Profile

    • MaryAnne

      Aw, thanks! I don’t think I’ll be butchering my own chickens anytime soon- when I was a kid, I helped my Dad do ours by holding them down while he took an axe to their necks. Kinda made me vegetarian for 15 or so years. And on our street here, I see so many chicken executions daily– today alone, I saw one chicken getting its neck wrung on my way to the grocery store and another being freshly plucked on the way back. If it wasn’t for bacon and other fine cured and smoked meats, I’d have reverted back to being vegetarian as soon as we moved to China. So much blood and guts…

      Anyway. Enough gore. Thank you again. I have a feeling my skill with instruction giving stems from a decade of teaching really low level English students…

  • Marie

    Pesto is the kind of thing I like to make at my Mum’s house in California* because you can buy giant bunches of basil very cheaply. I’d love it on pasta, I’m sure, but it’s usually been dealt to with a spoon and my big mouth before that ever happens. Those gnocchi look to live for! (See what I did there?)

    *being that herbs, like everything else, are expensive here in large quantities.
    Marie recently posted..Rugby World Cup 2011My Profile

    • MaryAnne

      Fresh hers are remarkably affordable here, when you can get them. My two baggies full came to 10rmb (5 per bag) and made a heaping cup of pesto. Given that a tiny jar of pre-prepared stuff costs about 65rmb, that’s not too bad 🙂

      And indeed, the gnocchi were definitely to live for! Can’t enjoy them if dead!

  • Tracyann0312

    Hi Mary Anne, I just wonder why you put some basil in cream sauce. What can be the main purpose of the basil leaves in the pesto cream. Thanks a lot for the fabulous food you have share in your blog again. It tastes delicious.
    Tracyann0312 recently posted..שליחת SMSMy Profile

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